Van Isl Circumnav - Part 2 - West Coast leg

June 15.  Hope Island is one of those misty dark places on the west coast that you read about with utter beauty as the Sun rises on the water. The caves on the inlet of the bay look surreal, like something you might see a movie with the mist coming in off the Pacific. The Golden Hind stirred to life early this morning, wasn't hard to get out of the bunk today..   We will be turning left as we gybe to port around Cape Scott.

The Sun rose in front of us as we set sail early on what I would call some of the best sailing I've ever had. The wind was blowing about 15 Knots northeast. On a broad reach as we had clocked around the island enough towards the Cape that the wind was now in a favorable direction. The golden highway was only about a one foot chop as we made 6knt on our 24 nautical mile run to Cape Scott.



 

Reaching the Cape, we could see the sand beaches in the distance. Wind was still 15 to 20knt, small seas and just on the end of a flood, perfect conditions for rounding. We made our bearing southerly and gybed to wing on wing.  Poling out the Genoa we quickly jumped in speed to 7 knots. Sun was slowly starting to break through the low lying West Coast fog and the beach was visible.  We stayed on a south westerly course until we saw approximately 12 nautical miles sea room to the coast. This was about right where we could turn more Southerly for our run past Brooks Peninsula. Approximately 10 miles sea room of Brooks is what I'm comfortable with due to the upcoming forecast. The following seas slowly built through the day and saw surfing up to 9 knots averaging five and a half and surfing to 9. Throughout the day, the Sun came out. Bright sunny blue water,  beautiful conditions 3 to 4 ft following seas and we were making time. The boat is handling flawlessly and surfing like a high performance surfboard. Power those sails up and she'll take off.  The Albin Vega design has proved to be faster than I expected with a hull speed of approximately 6.5 knot. She gets on top and rips at 7 to 8 knt quite happily.  We passed Brooks Peninsula and the seas began to climb while the wind rose as predicted by the Coast Guard. This is why I increased the sea room. A planned overnighter and looks like we may have high winds tonight. At this point I've increased our distance to 16 nautical miles. The forecasted high wind of 35 to 40 knot wind will be blowing on our stern. As the seas climb and the night progressed we found ourselves surfing at  11 knots. Had some troubles getting the jib down of course...   I made the classic mistake of not reefing early. Now my jib furler is fouled and my large sail will not come down. Current wind passing 25 knots and I'm surfing 11 knots.  Up to the bow under the stormy dark light, pulling the jib down through the cockpit and out of harm's way. Sad to say I blew out the leech line with the sail violently whipping in the wind. Like I say, lessons learned.  Anyways looking at the bright side I will get to test out my new sail repair kit.

With the headsail down and the double reef main,  boat was still surfing at 7 knots so in come the sails around midnight and heave to for the night. This was part of the plan, to try the boat in a storm like condition while still under control. That's one of the things this trip is about, to see how the Vega performs when I pressure it. She hove to nicely, lashing the tiller over to you leeward. Keeping about a 50' angle to the waves with bare poles, was just barely enough to hold angle. She could use a storm jib but very small one.... Add that to the shakedown list... I climbed inside the companion way and dad says to me," what do we do now?" for me there's nothing left to do but get some sleep. I'm exhausted.. The Drift at present is  perfect with the wind and the sea room we were drifting at 1.5 to 2 knots in the 16 foot waves directly down the coast. I told Dad," well, the longer we sleep the less distance we have to cover tomorrow."  I think that relaxed him a little bit. Actually I doubt it, but I climbed into my bunk set my alarm for every 45 minutes to check our position and drifted off to sleep. We bobbed in the storm with our drift in the right direction all night. Woke early as the wind started to subside to around 25knt now and the Seas still large. I fired up the diesel and pointed us in the direction we wanted to go just to double reef the main then shut her off, and off we went. The secret plan to hopefully hit Hot Springs Cove is now kind of a necessity and not a want anymore... More of a need. Dad has never been there and talked about it since I was a boy. there was no way we're going to miss that. The wind died down to 15 to 20 knots. The storm jib and a double reefed main seems to be awesome sail combination for higher wind sailing. Very easy to balance.  Dad's nerves were on high alert from the night while I found it to be quite pleasing. It's funny the perspectives. We made her into hot springs Cove mid afternoon on the 16th. and made the 2 mile hike out to the springs with bathing suits in hand.

Hot Springs Cove is a magical place. When you feel like you need it, there is a natural hot tub full of European women.  On the docks when we arrived, I spoke to the Restaurant Manager and the guide charters about the tourist industry here. They all mentioned that it is 80% women who book tours here.  Bummer, when I hit the spring,it was just me and Dad...

This area of the West Coast and the Clayoquot Sound, have rich history with the First Nations. Opensit Peninsula is covered in sacred sites, tree carving and burial grounds most remarkable are the burial caves.  Everybody at this beautiful spot is very welcoming and pleasant. We spent the night tied to the wharf with two half wolves down on the dock to keep us company. That definitely ensured that Mylo the boat kitty kept all 4 feet on board!

We woke up early to the charter boats starting to come in. One of the reasons I like to anchor out...  The reputation of this place definitely stood fast. We enjoyed our coffee on the dock and had an early exit from hot springs Cove under a new sail configuration for Ucluelet.





June 17th.  This was a 40 mile run in excellent conditions bright sunshine 3 to 4ft following seas and 10 to 15 knt wind. A far cry from the storm force and constant the gale force + wind we enjoyed all the way up the Johnstone strait!  A number of mast slides had failed in the storm off  Brooks. So we had to limp our way down under double reef instead of full main and #2 jib which would have been ideal in these conditions. We lost approximately a knot, maybe 2 all day which made the run a little longer than it needed to be. But it would be easy and beautiful as we were accompanied by porpoises most of the day. We passed off down the coast past Longbeach, Chestermans beach and Cox bay. The ocean in this area is a little more turbid than other areas. The crystal blue water of the Johnstone Strait has given way to murky water of the west coast. The storm from previous days must have turned it up quite a bit. We rounded the corner, navigated the reefs into Ucluelet Harbor under a beautiful warm sunny spring evening and tied to the government Wharf to make dinner. Repair parts, mast slides and clips are on their way thanks to my good friend Lew at West Marine. Mom is bringing the parts along with company down to the boat and that includes Duke my dog which I am missing very very badly at this point. How am I going to do it being away from him for the passage to Australia, I don't know.  We met some interesting people down on the docks as they prepped for squid fishing off the wharf.

June 18th.   First thing in the morning we swapped docks for fuel and then the next government Wharf down where access is much easier for Mom. Just down from the Ocean Marine Center, there is a small but excellent Wharf for transferring fuel and provisions. Mom showed up with Duke and Ray and Val along with their little dog. We had a great visit on the boat, I repaired the sails. modified the self steering gear to support it better. Generally brought the boat back up to 100% maybe a bit better. Tomorrow after being fully rejuvenated with the layday, a great dinner at the local restaurants, laundry done, new provisions we are ready for the final leg home. This is the home stretch. This area is where I learned how to sail my Kirby. I spent days, months and years sailing giant triangles in that strait cutting from Canada to United States, back to Canada. The Vega is a heavier boat, and far easier to handle in these conditions but not near as fast. That I kinda miss...

June 19th.  Leisurely morning, sailing past the Broken Group motor sailing as the wind is about 5 knots and flat calm. Not the best sailing conditions but that's the way she is out here... Get out early and the wind will constantly rise throughout the day until you have the most amazing sailing down the coast. Wasn't long before we saw more giant sea otters and porpoises around us. This ecosystem here is so alive. The shallow waters that run out distances have random pockets of kelp beds floating where the sea otters find their food, the giant sea urchin.  Floating on their backs with their hind paws sticking out of the water like furry slippers, they eat their urchins by breaking them open with their favorite rock. They tuck this little rock under their arms so they won't lose it.  The largest of the Weasel species, this otter has the densest fur in the animal kingdom.  This spurred relentless hunting from the mid 1700's to 1900's, pushing them onto the endangered species list.

Off in the distance Cape Flattery came into view as we slowly passed by Nitnat River, Carmanah and Walbran valleys. Once inside this strait, it felt more like home with Whiffin Spit on the agenda for the stop over tonight. It wasn't long inside the strait that we finally got our first hit on the fishing rod. Eased the sails to slow the boat and pulled in a small spring which had grabbed the hook which was bouncing on the surface at close to 7 knt! We look forward to BBQ salmon and potatoes with peppers. Rounding Whiffin spit in the early evening, he caught a favorable tide to our shallow anchorage just inside the protected waters and out of the way of this busy passage. A great anchorage with flat calm waters and a nice hike to stretch the legs.  We celebrated a little with a bottle of port and turned in floating over the reflecting lights of Sooke.

 

June 20th.  Jada brought us coffee first thing in the morning and we enjoyed, as usual, a chilled morning in the cockpit until the tide starts to ebb.  With caffeine and muffins in our system we pulled anchor and headed for our next Anchorage which was Sydney spit on Sydney Island. Good sailing as this was the fastest I have ever sailed past Victoria. Typically a slow day with the convergence zone the deal with. Today, we flew past Victoria at approximately 7 knots sustained with a 15 to 20 knt wind, 2 foot following seas and sunshine. Suntan lotion, fishing rod out. We flew through Discovery passage en route to our next Anchorage. That eve we hooked to one of the existing mooring pins at Sydney spit under an early evening sky. Tucked in between all the yachts and other sailing vessels much like mine. Dinner and easy lounging in the early summer sunset.  Tomorrow we run for home past saltspring  isl. 

June 21st. We woke to the sun peaking over the coastal mountains in yet another flawless, blue sky.  What are the chances to make it all the way around the island with only maybe 4 hours of light rain the entire time?!  Breakfast and off we went.  Hoisted the sails even tho the water was like a mill pond..  Like we were coaxing the wind to give us something...  We motored past Sidney, between Fernie and Goudge isl. and past Saltspring...  Being a bit early for the tide at Samsun Narrows, we sailed in the light wind at approx. 1-2 knt to buy time.  Samson Narrows is always a treat and a beautiful short cut to Stuart Channel.  The tide just sucks you through.  Eagles and Harbor Seals abound here.  Sailing up Stuart Channel, motoring when the sporatic wind died, we made home dock by 18:30.  The Vega completed the Circumnav in almost exactly 15 days!  Quite an achievement for this little cruiser and crew. 

When I complete this route again, I will make a few minor adjustments.  Firstly, no more chasing a fleet.  Altho we completed the circumnav in almost the same amount of time, we pushed harder in spots than I felt like.  I wont pound up Johnstone Strait in Gale force NE's. but rather take some of the secondary routes like Chancellor Channel and Mayne passage.  Get further out into Desolation sound.  I wouldn't change the company.  What an amazing short expedition with my father.  He rose to the occasions when we needed it and made a mean pot of campers coffee in the mornings. 

 

Starting to realize that the cruising grounds we have right here may be some of the most diverse in the world.  From technical sailing in the current swept passages to strong, blasting winds in the channels.  Nooks and crannies everywhere you go which could be your own private paradise.  No matter where life takes me, this will always be home.