A Van Isle Circumnav- Part 1 - East Coast Van Isl

I sit here after the completion of my first circumnavigation of Vancouver Island, thinking back to all the ports of call, the spectacular views and spending 2 weeks of quality time with my father.   Sort of looking at my blog wondering where to start and what to say as the whole experience of skippering my Albin Vega for her first real shakedown.  Pouring over my Captain's log, so many hidden memories come flooding back...  I guess best thing to do is to start at the beginning and slowly edit out the bits that don't make the cut.

About 5 years ago, I came up with this plan.  To buy a boat, refit her to a standard I am comfortable with and sail her around the world.  This has been a personal challenge that has become a driving factor in my life.  So many things have to come first, family, money, refit, work, and personal training to name just a few.  Slowly over the years everything has began to fall into place and many things are yet to come to fruition.  At one time, I thought of sailing offshore as being a far off goal, one to attain someday.  First was to compete in the Vic- Maui International Yacht Race to gain offshore experience and then to skipper my Albin Vega around the Island.  Well, if you make the right decisions and stay focused, these things happen.  Last year, I competed in the Vic-Maui, completing the run from Victoria, BC to Lahaina, HI.  This rooted the need to be away from land and the sweet isolation of a place far away from anything, a place of unbroken horizons.

But this blog entry is not about the Vic-Maui, it is about a 16 day adventure around this rock we call Vancouver Island. 







I had no idea how amazing it was going to be to set sail and get my own 360' view of one of the most beautiful places on earth.  Not only experience these things first hand, but to get to enjoy these things with my father at 72.

The Albin Vega is a pocket blue water boat.  Chosen after a number of years of research into small cruisers.  The Albin Vega always came to the top.  Smaller than what some would consider but perfect for someone who wants to experience the purity of sailing solo or short-handed for long distances in a expertly designed and safe vessel.  

With much of the refit completed, the summer of 2015 is the year to tick one more  check off the list.  Shakedown the boat in a real offshore environment.  What better way than to chase the Van Isle 360 fleet?  So the adventure took shape and after provisioning, gutting out all the stuff I didn't need, I untied the lines...

June 5th, 2015.  A mid morning exit from Ladysmith marina in the bright sunshine, after saying goodbye to a new friend, Malcolm. From Australia, who recently brought his boat to summer over(or winter over) depending on your perspective, at the marina.  I motored out of the harbor and set sail for a layday in Nanaimo for my son's grad photos and to pick up my crew.

June 6th. I watched the Van Isle 360 yachts cycle in the harbor and eventually get their start at 10:00 for their circumnav.  I waited for an evening start after spending most of the day with the family and photos on the waterfront.  Couldn't wait to set sail as the anticipation built of the upcoming adventure. 18:41, I pulled the hook with dad onboard and we headed for a late day and evening run to False Bay on Lasqueti Isl.  This short leg was a tough one as we fought Gale force headwinds and built seas all the way to our midnight hook drop.

June 7th.  Up early in the morning sun, we pulled hook from this flat calm anchorage and powered out past the idle fishing boats.  Again, gale force winds on the nose meant motor sailing to make our destination of Comox harbor.  We made it by early afternoon, slipping past all the pleasure boats and families on the beaches.  Fueled and watered and set hook.  We had caught up to the Van Isle fleet.  Touring their boats on the dock, I was amazed at what they had for shore support.  motorhomes full of food, people everywhere, bbq's, sails and parts all over the lawns.  I wondered how we would fair if this is the kind of support they take...  One little boat with two people on board with no support crew. 

June 8th Not so early start on yet another beautiful, sunny day as we steamed out of the harbor and over the Comox reef and out ahead of the fleet.  15-20 knot wind, 2 foot seas, perfect for getting a head start on the fleet.  After an hour or so, we were making 6.5 knt as the fleet flew by.  Perfect day on the water.





Sun shining, water glistening and the sound of bubbles under the hull.  We sailed for
Painters cove.  The marina at painters cove is quite sheltered if you are on the right side of the dock.  We weren't.  The swell from the channel enters the bay, around the corner, causing an undulation in the boat.  Swinging the boat around made this much more comfortable.











 The shower and then beer on the deck of the restaurant was a good treat to celebrate our first few days out and marks our last night before shooting Seymour narrows and into the beginning of Chattam Strait.

June 9th.  Late start to hit the right tide, Gale force on the nose as we entered Seymour narrows.  The seas built good 6 foot standing and dynamic waves as the current opposed the gale force winds.  We motor sailed through the narrows, taking waves over the cockpit regularly.  The dodger definitely saved our butts many times from getting soaked.  The waves would hit and as long as you are backed up right under the dodger, all the water would cascade right over top.  Dry as ever. Dad laughed everytime, as if he was getting away with something..   I blew out my #2 jib so we cut the day short and pulled into Kanish Bay, tucked in behind Chained Isls.  Swapped out the sail for my new storm jib as the forecast for the Johnstone strait is Gale force+ NE for the next 3 days at least.  Worst possible wind for a little cruiser.  Here we enjoyed the beach, and saw one of the competitors from the Race to Alaska.  A small yellow Catamaran....  And a cat meowing in the bush....  Hmmmm, interesting, lets investigate... :)

June 10th.  Left early on an opposing tide in close to Gale force.  Found that unlike all the advice given by the salty sailors in the area, it was much better sailing on an opposing current with the NE winds as the seas did not build.  We had amazing high wind sailing under double reefed main and storm cut #2.  Ripped by Chattam Point, made the corner and headed for Helmcken Isl.  Sun is shining, strong wind and 1 ft chop = amazing sailing.  As the tide slacked and began to ebb, the seas built and by the end of the day, we made far less progress as the favorable current built nasty 4ft steep seas and regularly topping 6-7ft. close, steep waves.





Happy to set the hook in a quiet, flat calm and icy blue water for Helmcken Isl.  This island is full of life.  We build a small beach fire to shake off the wind blown cold feeling and stretched our legs with a short hike.  Great night sleep as the feeling of slight exhaustion starts to set in.



June 11th.  This is bound to be a longer day.  We need a layday.  The forecast is for storm force
winds for the next few days so we want to run for a harbor to sit this wind storm out.


 We sailed the Johnstone strait under our new plan of opposing tide and smaller seas.  Under the hot sun, we sailed past unbelievable scenery, rugged coastlines and foreboding rock escarpments.  The density of the forests here and the sheer cliffs would make this place an almost impenetrable landscape.  Sailing past Robson Bite, we kept our eyes peeled for Killer whale rubbing their backs on the rocks.  This famous area is one of the only documented places on earth where the whales enter the shallow waters to rub their back on the rounded rocks.  Why they do it?  I don't know.  I'm an engineer, not a biologist!  We made it to Telegraph cove before last light.  Happy to be here.  Was rather humourous to watch my poor dad try to get his land legs back as he wobbled up the dock, almost taking out a sign or two.  Exhaustion has started to set in, I can tell.  I need to keep a very close eye on this.  Tomorrow is a layday, and what better place to enjoy it?  Telegraph Cove!

June 12th.  We did very little.  Toured the docks, ate Bison Burgers, laundry, showers.  Back to 100%.  The history of Telegraph Cove is very interesting.  Starting out as a remote logging camp, it saw bunkhouses built and a small working community grew.  Eventually the mill shutdown and this small bunk community turned into a ghost town.  After being bought privately, the bunkhouses have been restored and now caters to an ever growing eco-tourism hub.

  If its on your way, stop here!  But not if you need diesel.....  Only Gasoline on the fuel dock...?  The local crystal blue water is a mecca for Kayaking.  Next time, the kayak will replace the dinghy on the foredeck...














All and all, a must see with its whale museum and amazing collection of skeletons of local creatures from eagles to whales.

Local Bears..  These two just hang around.

Sea Otter...  More like little Demon

Race To Alaska Team FreeBurd!

 June 13th.  We reluctantly departed Telegraph cove under the morning glow of the rising late spring sun.  Strong wind forecasted as a high pressure ridge off Haida Gwaii started to diminish.  Today is an easy 28 nm run to Port Hardy.  Was a fantastic day sailing.  Strong wind, 3 ft chop and sunshine.  The day passed quick leaving us considering continuing for Hope isl.  We decided to stay for the night and provision.  We took on fuel, water and diesel as our next opportunity to provision is in Ucluelet.  I find that you tend to meet some really great people down on the docks.  The steady procession of little ones walking the docks with their parents always love to talk about the boats.








Mylo, the boat cat is always a big hit too..  Met Gerd, the Skipper of the Taranga and shared tech advice on the "opencpn.org"  Chart plotting and offshore systems.  He knew of the Albin Vega design and commented on the heavy rigging and reputation of this exceptionally strongly built vessel.




  The anticipation of the upcoming west coast leg is building.  The ever so cute Wharfinger Angela was friendly enough to take me for a tour of the small port town.  Great conversation and a very sparky attitude was definitely the highlight of this Port.  Shoulda got her number... Damn ;)




June 14th.  Another beautiful blue sky slowly lit up the horizon as the sun rose in a cloudless sky.  The wind forecast is for lighter winds now in the Queen Charlotte Strait.  The high pressure ridge off Haida Gwaii which gave us our Gale Force+ wind up Johnstone Strait has pretty much diminished.  The planned run from Port Hardy to Bull Harbor, Hope Isl is a short 25nm..  15-20knt wind, small seas and full sunshine means whale watching with the smell of suntan lotion.  You gotta love cruising life...  There is no better way.  Broad reach most of the day gave me lots of time to fiddle with sheet to tiller steering to pass the time.  I enjoy rigging the steering this way.  A couple homemade bungees made of surgical tubing and a length of rope is this boat needs to steer itself. Simple and fun as well as a great exercise in balancing the boat.  Bull Harbor is a great stop over on the way to Cape Scott.  Fully protected and often used by the fishing fleets as a stop over before heading offshore, you can find a free, free floating Gov't wharf as you enter the harbor off the starboard bow.  We had about 20ft under the keel on low tide as we played with the shiners under the dock and amused ourselves by videoing them feed off crushed mussels.


Interesting history behind this island.  The Coast Guard communication station is long since defunct.  All that is left are a few empty houses and unkempt lawns.  That's not really the interesting part though.  At one point in time, the First Nations decided to build a city on this island North of Vancouver Island.  So with the swipe of a pen, millions was spent by the Government to see this built.  A great dock was built, roads were widened to Gov't standard, cement sidewalks, street lights...  All the infrastructure was put in.  Power was needed so a generating station was installed to run the street lights.  Gravel was needed for the road beds so a gravel pit was dug.  After all the infrastructure was put in and millions spent, nobody wanted to move there..  So it sits, a modern day ghost town with nice lights..  Future development of wind power may see this island start to generate livelihoods with the descendants of the Tlatlasikwala, Nakumgilisala, and Yutlinuk peoples.

Tomorrow morning we will make the 24nm run for Cape Scott and make the turn South for our offshore leg.  Time to eat, make last minute preparations and get some sleep.  Offshore leg is here...

For all the things in life I am grateful for, one of the most important to me is sailing.

 Nowhere on earth can you find such peace.  When the seas are happy, the horizons open up and you find yourself floating on another world. When she is angry, you must be brave and protect your everything. Humbly you emerge the other side..  To do this, you must first step away from the land and for gods sake, sail.

To be continued.........................