Tick Tock

With each mark of latitude and every mile ticking by on the plotter my spirits rise.  The water has gone from a dark greenish black through many hues of dark blue to a light crystal blue.  Sitting snug in the San Quintin channel listening to the gurgling of the 4 knt current on the hull, I have time to reflect on my 1800 NM. journey to get here.

I remember the first few days, leaving the security of my slip in Ladysmith,BC and winding my way through the Gulf Islands and San Juans.  Every island held memories of nights spent under the stars dreaming of the day I would set out.  So many memories of days running spinnaker up the channels and daydreaming of greater adventures. I wondered when I might see these places I have grown to love again.

Another line of latitude finds me off the coast of Washington.  This coast is not to be taken lightly. Wild and cold the nights of solo sailing are lonely. 

A few more ticks of latitude and I cross the Oregon line.  Water is like crystal. Blue and Cold.  The freak wind storms that can develop along this desolate coast will close all the bars making it impossible to find shelter.  I remember the time spent weather routing to ensure the next port would be made before the next weather system rolled in. The big seas have long since become normal.  The Golden Hind IV takes it all in stride and pushes forward .  She is an amazing boat.

Watching the miles go under the keel and the water lightening to a clear blue,  my spirits rise as finally California passes by my port side.  Being caught in an unforcasted wind storm, I surfed into Crescent city in high seas and on the verge of dangerous conditions..  Surfing the angry steep seas, the peaceful blue turned to black as the wind whipped the tops of the waves.  The exhausting run finally saw me making the placid Cove of Crescent city at 2:30AM.  A light fog on the flat water lit up by the Sodium Vapour made me reflect on what just happened and how glad I was to be safe at harbor.  

At 40° latitude. ,  I rounded the infamous Cape Mendocino.  This Cape is a turning point and any cruiser that has rounded this Cape know that it is a big thing.  We set out as a group under calm conditions and rounded in the dead of night.  Flat calm.  Next stop, Sausalito in San Francisco  Bay where a 3 day turn around to reprovision turned into 2 weeks as a storm system slammed into the coast.  

Miles under the keel, blue water passing under keep this journey real.  Dolphins playing in the bow wave like torpedoes trailing phosphorescence in the night. Always a welcome sight and a chance to lay on the bow trailing my hand in the passing water watching the creatures dart back and forth in the black of night.

Lights of LA and new friends opening their arms to me in Cabrillo was a nice break from the open seas. A chance to get out on the town and down many beers in the local bars and boats.  Good times and great new friends.  Newport Beach is the meaning of American excess.  Anchored right in the middle of glass castles and multimillion dollar yachts, I couldn't help but feel excited to get south and out of this atmosphere. 

Finally the crossing where the starboard shroud gets a new flag..  The red white and green of Mexico replaced the stars and stripes..  At about 31°latitude, Ensenada.  Clearing in was a snap.  Although time consuming and about half a tree later, the very official personel made love to their rubber stamps and triple stamped everything.  But what do I care, I'm in and nothing would be better than to celebrate with cheap beer and fish tacos with friends.

This brings me to where I lay now.  Snug in the harbor of San Quintin.  The blue water framed by sand dunes and dormant volcanoes all around the coastline make me realize how far from home I am..  And yet I think about what the future will bring.